On Centre Street in West Roxbury, food is happening. There are stalwarts like Anna’s Donuts & Coffee and the Corrib. There are “new’’ places that have been around long enough they could be considered stalwarts, too — West on Centre and Real Deal. Himalayan Bistro and Sticky Rice Cafe are among the businesses that bring an international flavor. Establishments like Sugar and Rox Diner have been so successful they’ve added outposts in other neighborhoods. A burrito joint and a barbecue place are in the works. If it weren’t for the mosh pit that is Roche Bros., you might think no one cooks at home anymore.
On this restaurant row, Porter Cafe stands out. Four years ago, this was the site of a terrible fire that started in the former Tai Ho. The block has been rebuilt, and Porter Cafe opened in June. It’s a small space, with about 10 tables and a long bar, dimly lit and with dark red walls. Owners Paul Murphy and Dermot Loftus have worked at places like Matt Murphy’s, Washington Square Tavern, and Beacon Street Tavern in Brookline, as well as pubs in Dublin (both are originally from Ireland). Here they highlight craft beer. Keeping the new operation scaled down and focused, they have created a place that works. Service is informal but very attentive. And the kitchen is open into the double digits, serving a friendly neighborhood crowd.
The partners also had the great sense to bring in Jimmy Whelen as chef. An alum of Tremont 647 and the B-Side Lounge, Whelen makes simple fare that is consistently tastier than you think it could be. He has the touch.
Read more: With craft beer and great food, Porter Cafe stands out
Article author: Devra First, Boston Globe staff